Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
Step 4.5. Fixing the A strip of wood or member separating and holding panes in a window. bars
I lay one of the A horizontal framing member above the door/window opening./window units flat on a working platform.
I marked around the inside of the frames 10mm up from the bottom.
I fixed muntin bars around the inside of the frames on that mark, i.e. the muntin bars were 10mm up from the bottom.
The side (Plumb, upright.) muntins had the notches facing down, and the top and bottom (Parallel to the horizon, flat, level.) muntins had the notches facing up.
I cut a 3/4″ (18mm) A piece of wood made of three or more layers of wood veneer laminated together with glue. platform slightly smaller than the size of the muntin grid area, say approximately 21½” (537mm) x 59″ (1475mm).
I placed the platform in the opening underneath the muntin bars so that the muntin bars were sitting on the platform.
I joined (with glue) the rest of the muntin bars (both vertical and horizontal) required to make up a complete grid.
The notches in the horizontal muntins slotted into the notches in the vertical muntins.
I then made up a second grid and sat it on top of the first grid with no nailing whatsoever, just plenty of glue in the notches where the muntin bars joined.
I separated the two grids with some plastic so that the two freshly glued muntin grids wouldn’t stick to one another.
That was the bits and pieces for one door/window unit taken care of.
I then did the same for the other two.