Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
Chapter 5: The Base and Some Painting
Step 5.1. Making the base
The base is simply a square frame with a An L-shaped cutout with one side, that is always at an end or side of a member, unlike a notch that is a U-shaped cutout. cut around the inside edge in which the A piece of wood made of three or more layers of wood veneer laminated together with glue. floor sits.
I cut four pieces of 2½” x 3½” (90mm x 95mm) Timber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees to the length of 40″ (1000mm).
I marked along the narrow The widest side of a piece of wood. of each piece 1¼” (31mm) in, and along the adjacent face 11/16″ (18mm) down (the thickness of the plywood floor).
I How much the teeth are angled out on a circular saw blade. the blade depth on the circular saw to the appropriate depth and cut along the marks creating a rebate 1¼” (31mm) in and 11/16″ (18mm) deep.
I cut a 45 degree miter (angle cut) each end of each piece across the narrow face of the wood angling in towards the rebate.
I made the cuts so that the length between the longest points of the rebates was 36¼” (906mm).
I fixed the four pieces together to make a square.
I rounded all the corners with a disc sander.
And finally (as far as construction went) I added a piece of wood (Blocks, see Block.) across the middle. The purpose of that was to take any bounce or spring out of the plywood floor.