Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
Some strengthening and the A horizontal framing member above the door/window opening. closer
I fitted two 10″ (250mm) Covered with a protective coating of zinc. angle brackets to the front wall, one each side at the inside top corners.
That would help The part of the plywood wall panels that overlaps the door and window frame, and protrudes into the door or window area and covers any gaps between the door/window and the surrounding frame. It acts as a stop for the door and also stops the rain getting in. any sideways warp.
On the side where the door closed I ran a piece of 3/16″ (4mm) thick x 1 3/8″ (40mm) wide aluminum strap down the inside of the A stud (a vertical framing member) each side of a door opening., fixed half on and half off.
The protruding half (the half off bit) acted as a A strip of wood or a small batten that is attached to the door jambs on both sides and on top of the door thus stopping or limiting draught and/or rain..
I also fixed a thin galvanized The top or bottom horizontal framing member of the wall. to each top corner of the side walls for added strength – once painted red they wouldn’t be noticed.
The door closer
The fly-screen door (on the front door of our house) had an old style door closer on it – a spring/cushion type.
Needless to say, I took it off and fitted it to the telephone Rough grade timber. door.
Uh-oh. That didn’t go down too well with my dear wife.
I don’t think some women understand the psyche of a DIYer on a mission. If he spots a part he needs he will grab it regardless of what it is doing or holding up.
I vaguely remember hearing the words, “if you like the telephone box so much – go and sleep in it.”
Anyway, it only took a month and a new fly-screen door for things to get back to normal around the household.
Meanwhile, back to the job. I also fixed a chain to the top of the door to stop the door from opening too far and putting undue pressure on the door closer, as I knew that the grandkids and their friends would be in and out of the phone box like a dog at a fair, and that the door would get more than its share of punishment.