Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
The head side-frames were made out of 2″ x 8″ (200mm x 50mm) wood. They formed a 36″(900mm) square. The actual or finished size of the wood once dressed (planed or surfaced) was 1½ x 7½ (190mm x 45mm).
I cut four pieces of 1½ x 7½ (190mm x 45mm) wood, each slightly longer than 36″(900mm). Each piece needed a bevelled curve (compound cut) cut along the top edge.
I needed to make a pattern in order to mark the curved shape on the wood.
I drew a plan on a grid with the line spacings representing 1″ or 25mm. This made it easy to transfer the shape onto a piece of cardboard in real size, cut the cardboard, and then use that as a pattern to mark the wood.
Below is the grid plan with the line spacings representing 1″ or 25mm.
All you need to do to make a pattern is to get a piece of cardboard 8″ x 36″ (200mm x 900mm) and draw a grid with the line spacings 1″ or 25mm apart. Then draw a curve, as shown above, onto the cardboard using the grid lines as points of reference.
For your information; the diameter of the curve is 5ft (1500mm).
Once I marked the wood, I clamped each piece securely to a saw horse for cutting.
The curve and angle was easy enough to cut (doing a few runs) using a circular power saw with its blade tilted 30° off square.
Note: The angle cut is outwards from the mark line – not inwards. See the drawing below.