Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
Step 1.1. continued
And this (in the photo) is what a piece looked like after the curve had been cut.
Once the curves along all the four pieces were cut, I then cut a 45 miter (angling in) at both ends of each piece.
See the drawing below.
Then, on a flat surface I fixed the four head side-frame pieces together with glue and nails ending up with a 36″ (900mm) square.
Refresher note: The size of the Timber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees I used for the head side-frames was 2″ x 8″ (200mm x 50mm) which is pretty much a common size, but that is the The rough-sawn size of a piece of lumber. Before the lumber is surfaced, planed or dressed. The nominal size is usually greater than the actual dimension. e.g. 100x50 (2 x 4) actually equals 90x45 (1 1/2" x 3 1/2"). – i.e., the size that the wood is called. The real or The finished (dressed) size as opposed to the nominal size of a piece of wood. is more like 1½ x 7½ (190mm x 45mm).
In other words the wood starts out at 2″ x 8″ (200mm x 50mm) but by the time it is Surfaced; planed; smooth; even surface; gauged. (planed, smoothed, or See Dressed.) it finishes up being more like 1½ x 7½ (190mm x 45mm).
Most smooth finished wood is the latter size.
If wood is actually the bigger size (the size prior to being dressed) it is usually called ‘rough sawn’ or rough Any of the framing wood..