Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
Step 1.1. continued
And this (in the photo) is what a piece looked like after the curve had been cut.
Once the curves along all the four pieces were cut, I then cut a 45 miter (angling in) at both ends of each piece.
See the drawing below.
Then, on a flat surface I fixed the four head side-frame pieces together with glue and nails ending up with a 36″ (900mm) square.
Refresher note: The size of the wood I used for the head side-frames was 2″ x 8″ (200mm x 50mm) which is pretty much a common size, but that is the nominal size – i.e., the size that the wood is called. The real or actual size is more like 1½ x 7½ (190mm x 45mm).
In other words the wood starts out at 2″ x 8″ (200mm x 50mm) but by the time it is dressed (planed, smoothed, or surfaced) it finishes up being more like 1½ x 7½ (190mm x 45mm).
Most smooth finished wood is the latter size.
If wood is actually the bigger size (the size prior to being dressed) it is usually called ‘rough sawn’ or rough lumber.