Table of Contents
- 2The size of the thing
- 3About the measurements used
- 4A visual index
- 5Overview of the head
- 6Step 1.1. The head side-frames.
- 7Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
- 8Step 1.3. The form (mold) for the hypertufa.
- 9Step 1.4. Hypertufa
- 10Placing the hypertufa
- 11Hypertufa - The curing process
- 12Step 1.5. Slurry
- 13Off with the formwork
- 14Step 1.6. The head side-covers and the crown
- 15The crown
- 16Fixing the trim to the side-covers
- 17Step 1.7. Fiberglass
- 18Step 1.8. Paint - undercoating the head
- 19Overview of the body frame
- 20Step 2.1. Shaping the frame members
- 21Step 2.2. Cutting the frame members to length
- 22Step 2.3. Making the wall frames
- 23Step 2.4. The body frame
- 24Step 2.5. The shackles
- 25Overview of the Neck
- 26Step 3.1. The neck - making the box unit
- 27Step 3.2. The aluminum angle for the sign
- 28Step 3.3. Internal perimeter pieces
- 29Step 3.4. Fitting the neck
- 30Step 3.5. The telephone sign
- 31Step 4.1. The trim around the door and window openings
- 32Door and window overview and plan
- 33Step 4.2. Wood for the door and windows
- 34Step 4.3. Joining the stiles and rails
- 35Step 4.4. Notching the muntin bars
- 36Step 4.5. Fixing the muntin bars
- 37Step 4.6. Painting the door and windows
- 38Step 4.7. The acrylic sheet
- 39Step 5.1. Making the base
- 40Step 5.2. Some painting
- 41Step 6.1. Putting it all together
- 42Some strengthening and the door closer
- 43The desired effect
- 44Step 7.1. The rose and ceiling
- 45Making the rose pattern
- 46Marking, drilling, and cutting the rose
- 47Tapering the rose
- 48Painting and fitting the ceiling and rose
- 49The light goes on
- 50The plans
Step 1.2. The head inner support structure.
The inner support structure comprised of cross-section and diagonal-section pieces that were used to support the roof until the different following applications (hypertufa, slurry, fiberglass) cured or How much the teeth are angled out on a circular saw blade..
I made the pieces out of ¾” (18mm) custom A piece of sawn, or dressed lumber of greater width than thickness. Usually 19mm (3/4") to 38mm (1 1/2") thick and 75mm (3") or more wide., but any similar type of board would have done, such as A piece of wood made of three or more layers of wood veneer laminated together with glue..
There would be two cross-section pieces interlocking in the middle and four diagonal-section pieces fitting neatly into each quarter, running from center to corner. The pieces would give the profile of the dome.
I needed to make a pattern for each piece to mark the shapes onto the custom board.
I drew the plans for each piece onto a grid where the line spacings represented 1″ or 25mm. This made it easy to transfer the shapes onto pieces of cardboard in real size, cut the cardboard pieces, and then use them as patterns to mark the custom board.
Below are the plans I used where the line spacings represented 1″ or 25mm.
All you need to do to make the patterns is to get 4 pieces of cardboard 25″ x 13″ (625mm x 325mm), and 2 pieces of cardboard 36″ x 13″ (900mm x 325mm), and draw a grid on each piece with the line spacings 1″ or 25mm apart. Then draw the shapes as shown above onto the cardboard using the grid lines as points of reference.
Note: Although various relevant plans are shown throughout the course of these instructions, they are also all grouped together in Chapter 8.