This style of bench is very common and there are many varied versions posted around the place. This is my version.
What differentiates this fellow is that it is built mostly out of rough 1×6 (150mm x 25mm) actual (true) size Any of the framing wood..
But there is more about that further down the page.
I have also authored another version of this bench which can be seen here
So let’s cut to the chase and get cracking. First up the plans, parts identification, and then all the other razzmatazz with plenty of pictures, step-by-step how-to, yadda yadda yadda.
This project is written in both standard (inches) and Millimeter measurements. (Abbreviation for millimeter which is a metric unit of length equal to one thousandth of a meter. 25.4 mm equals one inch.).
The standard measurements are given first followed by the metric measurements in brackets ( ) – for example: 1×6 (150mm x 25mm).
The standard is more suitable for North America and the metric more suited for Australasia.
I hope you find these plans useful and easy to understand, if so – please share. I also appreciate feedback – there is a comments form at the end of the page.
Identifying the parts
All pieces are 1×6 (25x150mm) lumber except for pieces [B], [E], [K2].
Pieces [B], [E], [K2] are 2×4 (100mm x 50mm) lumber
[A] seat-frame front and rear members: 2 pieces @ 59-1/2″ (1510mm).
[B] seat-frame cross members: 4 pieces @ 18″ (460mm) angled back 15deg one end.
[C] front leg: 2 pieces @ 23-3/4″ (600mm).
[D] rear leg: 2 pieces @ 26-1/4″ (665mm) overall, angled back 15deg both ends, Being of equal distance from each other at all points..
[E] armrest support: 2 pieces @ 21-1/4″ (540mm) angled back 15deg one end.
[F] armrest: 2 pieces @ 23-3/4″ (600mm).
[J] table frame upright: 2 pieces @ 14-3/4″ (375mm).
[K] table frame front-rail outer: 1 piece @ 18-1/2″ (470mm).
[K2] table frame front-rail inner: 1 piece @ 18-1/2″ (470mm).
[L] table frame rear support: 1 piece @ 59-1/2″ (1510mm).
[M] backrest top The top and bottom frame member of a door or window (not the jamb). Cross member of panel doors or of a sash. Also the upper and lower member of a balustrade or staircase extending from one vertical support, such as a post, to another. The horizontal member of a fence.: 2 piece @ 18-1/2″ (470mm).
[N] seat slats: 6 pieces @ 20-1/2″ (520mm).
[O] table slats: 3 pieces @ 23-3/4″ (600mm).
[P] backrest slats: 6 pieces @ 35″ (890mm).
The Timber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees and wood size
For cost reasons, this project is designed for using 1×6 (150mm x 25mm) and 2×4 (100mm x 50mm) wood – actual (true) size which is usually a rough wood before it has been See Dressed. or planed smooth.
Read more about that at the end of the instructions.
‘Lumber sources’ and ‘Materials you need’ are at the end of the instructions (scroll down).
The individual pieces
All pieces are 1×6 (25x150mm) lumber except for pieces [B], [E], [K2].
Pieces [B], [E], [K2] are 2×4 (100mm x 50mm) lumber. All Any of the three linear measurements, length, breadth and depth. are actual (true).
Steps 1 to 3:
Step 1. Cut the pieces
Cut all the pieces to the lengths given in the drawing above. Cut the longer pieces first to minimize waste.
Note that pieces [E] and [B] have one end angled back 15° A line across the face of a piece of wood (at right angles to the length) is a square line. A line deviating from the square line is off square. Off-square refers to how many degrees the off square line is in relation to the square line. For example, a line at a 5 degrees angle to the square line, is 5 degrees off square., and piece [D] has both ends angled back 15° off square as shown in the drawing above.
All other pieces are square cut.
Step 2. Make the seat frame
Make up the seat frame as shown in the drawing above.
Note that one end of pieces [B] (the cross members) are angled back 15° off square.
Note that the distance between the two intermediate cross members [B]
is 18-1/2″ (470mm). This is an important measurement.
Fixing detail: This applies to every step.
Apply glue to every The gap or space created when two building materials come together, such as where two pieces of molding join or where the bathtub and bathroom wall meet. before fixing with screws. Each step shows the screw holes marked with a black dot.
Pre-drill all the screw holes in the The widest side of a piece of wood. piece of wood at each joint. The face piece is the piece where you will see the screw head (the screw hole dots shown in the drawings).
Refer to the drawing in each step for screw placement.
Use 3″ (75mm) screws in steps 2,3,4,and 8.
Use 2″ (50mm) screws in steps 5and 7.
Use 2″ (50mm) screws in step 6 except for the top of the table frame where you will use 3″ (75mm) screws.
Step 3. Make up the side frames
Make up the side frames as shown in the drawing above. The left side is a mirror image of the right side.
Steps 4 to 6
Step 4. Add the side frames to the seat frame
To secure with nails or screws. the side frames to the seat frame as shown in the drawing.
Position the top of the seat frame 15″ (380mm) up the legs.
Step 5. Add the backrest slats
Fix piece [L] (the table frame rear support) to the ends of the armrest supports [E].
Then fix the backrest slats to pieces [A] and [L].
Two of the backrest slats [P] will need a bottom corner cut out in order to fit around the intermediate cross members [B].
Fix pieces [M] to the back of the backrest slats to prevent the slats from warping.
Make the cut-out with a jigsaw or a handsaw.
Step 6. Add the table frame
Make the front table frame up as shown in the drawing above, then fix it to the inside of the seat-frame front Piece of lumber that is part of a frame or structure. [A] between the two intermediate
cross members [B]. Make the bottom of the table frame Being even with. with the bottom of
the seat-frame front member [A], and the top of the table frame should be the same height as the top of
back piece [L].
Steps 7 to 8
Step 7. Add the table slats & seat slats
Fix the table slats to piece [K2] and piece [L].
Fix the seat slats to the seat-frame pieces [B]
Step 8. Add the armrest
Finally, fix the armrest [F] to the armrest support [E] and the top of the front and rear legs,
as shown in the drawing.
About the wood and wood size
This project call for 1×6 (150mm x 25mm) The finished (dressed) size as opposed to the nominal size of a piece of wood. and 2×4 (100mm x 50mm) actual size wood – which is usually a rough wood
(not Surfaced; planed; smooth; even surface; gauged., planed, or dimensioned). It will give a bit of a rustic look and be inexpensive. Pressure treated. Refers to lumber that is treated in such a way that the sealer is forced into the pores of the wood. Refers to lumber pressure sprayed with chemicals to lengthen its life expectancy for outside use or inground applications. pine would do.
Would the rough wood pose problems splinter wise?
Not really. The fur (for lack of a better term) on the treated pine is soft and if need be, it wouldn’t take much to sand the parts that matter.
In USA you can get 1 in. x 6 in. boards easy enough (smooth or rough).
In Australia you can get 150mm x 25mm treated (rough Rough sawn; Not gauged, planed or dressed.) pine commonly used as plinth A piece of sawn, or dressed lumber of greater width than thickness. Usually 19mm (3/4") to 38mm (1 1/2") thick and 75mm (3") or more wide..
In NZ you can get 150mm x 25mm treated fence paling (rough sawn).
In most other countries you should be able to source 1×6 (150mm x 25mm) wood without too much bother
in some form or other.
Altogether you will need
Allowing for a little bit of wastage…
• 12 ft (3.6m) of treated 2×4 (100mm x 50mm) actual size lumber.
• 72ft (22m) of treated 1×6 (150mm x 25mm) actual size lumber.
Note: treated 1×6 (150mm x 25mm) and 2×4 (100mm x 50mm) actual size lumber usually means (rough) lumber before it has been dressed (surfaces, planed smooth).
When purchasing lumber try to get as long a lengths as possible to minimize waste.
You will also need…
80 of 2″ (50mm) wood screws,
48 of 3″ (75mm) wood screws,
and some glue.