Done!
About the woodTimber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees and wood size
This project call for 1×6 (150mm x 25mm) actual sizeThe finished (dressed) size as opposed to the nominal size of a piece of wood. and 2×4 (100mm x 50mm) actual size wood – which is usually a rough wood
(not dressedSurfaced; planed; smooth; even surface; gauged., planed, or dimensioned). It will give a bit of a rustic look and be inexpensive. TreatedPressure treated. Refers to lumber that is treated in such a way that the sealer is forced into the pores of the wood. Refers to lumber pressure sprayed with chemicals to lengthen its life expectancy for outside use or inground applications. pine would do.
Would the rough wood pose problems splinter wise?
Not really. The fur (for lack of a better term) on the treated pine is soft and if need be, it wouldn’t take much to sand the parts that matter.
Wood source
In USA you can get 1 in. x 6 in. boards easy enough (smooth or rough).
In Australia you can get 150mm x 25mm treated (rough sawnRough sawn; Not gauged, planed or dressed.) pine commonly used as plinth boardA piece of sawn, or dressed lumber of greater width than thickness. Usually 19mm (3/4") to 38mm (1 1/2") thick and 75mm (3") or more wide..
In NZ you can get 150mm x 25mm treated fence paling (rough sawn).
In most other countries you should be able to source 1×6 (150mm x 25mm) wood without too much bother
in some form or other.
Altogether you will need
Allowing for a little bit of wastage…
• 12 ft (3.6m) of treated 2×4 (100mm x 50mm) actual size lumberAny of the framing wood..
• 72ft (22m) of treated 1×6 (150mm x 25mm) actual size lumber.
Note: treated 1×6 (150mm x 25mm) and 2×4 (100mm x 50mm) actual size lumber usually means (rough) lumber before it has been dressed (surfaces, planed smooth).
When purchasing lumber try to get as long a lengths as possible to minimize waste.
You will also need…
80 of 2″ (50mm) wood screws,
48 of 3″ (75mm) wood screws,
and some glue.
[xyz-ihs snippet=”Post-your-handiwork”]
After a few initial explanations and a couple throughout the project, Les left me alone to read from the plans and get on with it.
I felt I handled the electric saw and drill with confidence and ease. I wasn’t at all intimated by the drop-saw as I read some of the
first-time girls were and I soon learnt to hold the drill-driver in proper alignment with the screws. There were only a couple of instances (maybe more) where I had to call on Les for some assistants.
It was such a lot of fun and I thouroughly enjoyed it. I think I could just about do another one by myself although Les said for safety reasons I would probably need supervision for the next one or two. It took about six hours to make over a couple of days.
I would recommend anyone to give such a project a try.
I am very proud of my bench seat with it’s little table.
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MS20IoA46II&feature=youtu.be
Hei.
Har laget noen av disse benkene, men har gjort noen endringer.
Del “D” er 5 gr. i forkant og ca. 10 gr. i bakkant.
Dette gjør at setet heller ca. 5 gr. mot ryggen. Mye bedre sete.
Legger ved et bildet av den jeg har laget.
Arild