An easy to make Bench Seat

Introduction

My Ireland bench seatA seat that is lacking a divider. A long seat for two or more persons

I call this ‘My Ireland Bench Seat Project’. Not because it has traits similar to any type of traditional Irish furniture or structure – but simply because I made it in Ireland.

Easy As

This is a great project for the novice woodworker or do-it-yourselfer.
Minimal tools are required. The whole thing could be cut out with just a handsaw.
There are only two different stock sizes used.
Most of the pieces are square-cut – easy, easy, easy, – although there are a couple of different angle-cuts required.
To make it easy to mark the lines for the angle-cuts, printable angle patterns are included in this instructive.
Just print them out, fold (or cut) along the lines and use them to mark the angles.
And… there are easy step-by-step instructions with plenty of helpful drawings and photos.

The source

I made this seat in the back shed of a quest house in Dublin, one of my places of stay whilst traveling around Ireland.
I managed to get my hands on a handsaw, electric drill and a few drill bits, a hammer, screw driver, measuring tape, pencil, square, and that was my total arsenal.
The only suitable woodTimber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees I could get within a bull’s roar of my place-of-stay was a softwoodGeneral term used to describe wood produced from needle and/or cone bearing trees. Wood that is easy to saw from conifers such as pine or fir. The term ‘softwood’ does not refer the density of the wood as there are hardwoods that are softer than softwoods such as balsa., not really suitable for outside use. As the seat was more than likely to spend most of its life outside – that meant preserving the wood.

You can purchase this plan in downloadable PDF file, print friendly and in clean copy (free of ads) for only $5.00.   Click here to purchase.
The plans can be purchased online and immediately downloaded to your computer.
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Moving on

On the next page is a pictorial overview – a quick visual guide to the contents within this documentation. That’s followed on subsequent pages by the plans and cutting detail, printable angle patterns for the two different angle-cuts required, a bit of information on the wood sizes and the measurements given, the materials and the tool list, and step-by-step instructions with accompanying photos and drawings.

The plans, part identification, & cutting detail

10 degree angle pattern

This is the angle required to cut the top and bottom of both back legs (c), and one end of both cross-rails (e).
Just print the pattern out, fold (or cut) along the lines and use it to mark the required angle.

You can purchase this plan in downloadable PDF file, print friendly and in clean copy (free of ads) for only $5.00.   Click here to purchase.

70 degree angle pattern

This is the angle required to cut one end of both back-rest supports (d).
Just print the pattern out, fold (or cut) along the lines and use it to mark the required angle.

Wood sizes and measurements

The wood sizes – bit of an explanation

Note: The wood sizes mentioned below are the stock sizes I was able to source locally. Sizes could vary from place to place. A slightly bigger or smaller stock size (within reason) will fare just as well.

There are only two different wood sizes used for this project. They are ex 1 1/2″ x 3″ (38mm x 75mm) for the two side frames and ex 1″ x 3″ (25mm x 75mm) for the seat slats and backrest slats.

Note: The term ‘wood size’ refers to the width and thickness of the wood, not the length. There are a number of different lengths.
The term ‘ex’ (as mentioned just before the wood sizes in the first paragraph) means ‘out of’.
When the wood is planed or dressedSurfaced; planed; smooth; even surface; gauged. ‘out of’ the sizes mentioned following the ‘ex’ (the nominal sizeThe rough-sawn size of a piece of lumber. Before the lumber is surfaced, planed or dressed. The nominal size is usually greater than the actual dimension. e.g. 100x50 (2 x 4) actually equals 90x45 (1 1/2" x 3 1/2").), the finished wood size will then be somewhat less (the actual sizeThe finished (dressed) size as opposed to the nominal size of a piece of wood.).

Cut all the pieces

Step 1. Cut all the pieces

To begin with, cut all the pieces to length – cut all the pieces square to begin with. Do not do any angle cuts just yet.

There are only two different stock sizes.

From 3/4″ x 2 3/4″ (20mm x 69mm) stock, cut 14 pieces as follows:
(a) 13 pieces @ 48″ (1200mm),   (a1) 1 piece @ 16 1/2″ (412mm).

From 1 1/4″ x 2 3/4″ (32mm x 69mm) stock, cut 10 pieces as follows:
(b) 2 pieces @ 23″ (575mm),   (c) 2 pieces @ 24″ (600mm),   (d) 2 pieces @ 31″ (775mm),   (e) 2 pieces @ 21 5/8″ (540mm),   (f) 2 pieces @ 25″ (625mm).

You can purchase this plan in downloadable PDF file, print friendly and in clean copy (free of ads) for only $5.00.   Click here to purchase.

Now the angle cuts.

Pieces (c), (d), and (e) need to be re-cut with angle-cuts. Six pieces in all need angle cuts.

Cut them according to the dimensionsAny of the three linear measurements, length, breadth and depth. given in the drawing.

To help, there are angle patterns that can be printed out on the pages following the plans.

Just print them out, fold (or cut) along the lines and use them to mark the angles.

Of course you might not need the patterns. You might be quite capable of getting the angles by other means.

Assemble the side frames

Step 2. Preserve the wood

This step only applies if you are using a wood that is not treated or not suitable for outside use.

When the wood has all been cut and all the sharp edges sanded, coat with a suitable wood preservative.

Get advice from you local builders supply store as to the best wood preservative for the job and then follow the instructions regarding applications and safety measures. Normally liquid preservative can be applied with a paint brush or rag and usually requires two or three coats.

Step 3. FixTo secure with nails or screws. ‘side one’ verticalPlumb, upright. members

On a flat surface lay out the three vertical pieces ((b), (c), and (d)) for one side in approximate position.

Drill, glue and screw (with 2 screws) the bottom of piece (d) to piece (c).

Refer to the plans for positioning.

The bottom of piece (d) should be up 5 1/2″ (137mm) from the bottom of piece (c).

Step 4. Fix ‘side two’ vertical members

Lay the vertical side-frame members ((b), (c), and (d)) for the second side, on top of the corresponding members of the first side.

As with step 3, fix piece (d) to piece (c).

Placing one side on top of the other ensures that both sides will be the same.

Side frames and back slats

Step 5. Fix ‘side one’ cross railThe top and bottom frame member of a door or window (not the jamb). Cross member of panel doors or of a sash. Also the upper and lower member of a balustrade or staircase extending from one vertical support, such as a post, to another. The horizontal member of a fence.

Fix a cross-rail (e) to side one’s vertical members. Refer to the drawing below.

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Step 6. Fix ‘side two’ cross rail

Fix ‘side two’ cross rail (e) to side two’s vertical members.

Note: Side one must be a mirror image of side two.

Refer to the plans for positioning.

To reiterate – The top of the cross-rail (e) should be up from the bottom 16 1/4″ (206mm) and offset back from the front of vertical piece (b) by 3/4″ (20mm).

Step 7. Fix two back-rest slats

On a flat surface Lay the two side frames on their backs, spaced apart 48″ (1200mm) overall.

Work out (and mark) where the back-rest slats (a) are to be placed along the back-rest vertical supports (d).

Fix (with glue and two screws at each meeting) the first and last (lower and uppermost) back-rest slats in place.

Back slats and seat slats

Step 8. Fix the intermediate back-rest slats

Fix the intermediate back-rest slats (a) in place.

Secure with glue and two screws at each meeting.

The ends of the back-rest slats (a) should be flushBeing even with. with the outer side of each vertical back-rest support (d)

Step 9. Fix the first seat slat

Turn the unit upright.

Mark where the seat slats (a) are to go along the cross rails (e).

Fix the second from front seat slat (a) in place. The ends of the seat slat should be flush with the outside edge of the front legs (b)

Seat slats and arm-rests

Step 11. Add the intermediate slats

Once the ‘cut-back’ slats have been fixed between the legs. Then add the rest of the intermediate seat-slats.