Table of Contents
Step 18: Tread housing
Tap and knock over the remaining uncut bits between the tread lines with a hammer.
Then clean out the grooves with a sharp chisel. The more saw cuts that were made, the easier the chiseling.
Step 19: To secure with nails or screws. the treads
Insert the front treads into the rebated grooves.
Remember, each tread is made up of two pieces of 150mm x 50mm (2″x6″) stock.
Hold them in place with little nails angled through the bottom edge of the treads into the stringer.
Step 20: Fix the stringers to the treads
Place the other stringer on top of the treads mirroring the bottom stringer.
A short nail with a large flat head used for securing roofing felt, plasterboard, sheet metal to wood etc. through the stringer into the treads using 100mm (4″) or 90mm (3 1/2″) Covered with a protective coating of zinc. nails: 3 nails per tread per side.
Step 21: Add the back treads
Fit the back treads in place.
Tap them along the tread groves until they are about 10mm (3/8″) from the front treads.
Nail through the stringer into the treads using 100mm (4″) or 90mm (3 1/2″) galvanized nails: 3 nails per tread per side.
Step 22: Place the stairs
Fix the steps in place. Nail the top of the stringers to the landing.
Temporarily pack with blocks of Timber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees under the bottom tread until treads are level.
Dig a hole 250x250x250 (10″x10″x10″) under each stringer and fill with A mixture of sand, gravel, water and cement which hardens to a stone like condition when dry.. Place a galvanized wire or bracket into the wet concrete against the two stringers.
When the concrete has cured, place a piece of damp course membrane under the stringer and on top of the concrete pad. This prevents moisture from the concrete pad leaching into the Any of the framing wood..