Table of Contents
- 1Introduction
- 2About the measurements, wood sizes
- 3The materials (shopping) list
- 4The materials (shopping) list continued
- 5The cutting list
- 6Cut, shape, and drill the pieces
- 7 Plans, the individual frame pieces
- 8Make up the smaller side frames
- 9Fix the seat support pieces to the long legs
- 10Assemble the side frames
- 11Prepare the frames for seat and tabletop
- 12Make the seat and tabletop panels
- 13Fix and seats and tabletop
- 14Adjust the backstops and fix the bracing
- 15Plans - the armrest
- 16Make and fit the armrest frames
- 17Make and fit the armrest pads
- 18Make the umbrella hole and more photos
Make the seat and tabletop panels
Step 8. Make the seats and tabletop panels.
The size of the seats and table panels is crucial.
The panelA sheet that forms a distinct flat and rectangular section or component. A transparent panel used to fill a framed section of a window. sizes are as follows:
Shorter seat area, 190 (7 5/8″) x 880 (35 3/8″)
Longer seat area, 190 (7 5/8″) x 1010 (40 3/8″)
Tabletop area, 475 (19″) x 1090 (43 5/8″)
The formula – The most crucial measurement is the difference in length between the shorter and longer seat, which should be the sum of the thickness of four side framing members. For example, the side framing members are 32.5 mmAbbreviation for millimeter which is a metric unit of length equal to one thousandth of a meter. 25.4 mm equals one inch. (1 1/4″) thick. Four times that is 130 mm (5″), which is the difference between the length of the two seats.
This formula is worth considering if you want to make the seats longer, or use a thicker woodTimber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees for the side frames.
Below are the plans for the seats and tabletop. There are two options. The option used in fig.1, which is 140 mm (5 1/2) wide x 19 mm (3/4″) thick, tongue and grooveA joint in which a protrusion (tongue) that runs along the edge of a board fits into a matching groove that runs along the edge of another board. Boards shaped with a tongue on one edge and a groove on the other so that they can be fitted together without gaps. boards, and another option used in fig.2 i.e. using 90 mm (3 1/2″) wide x 19 mm (3/4″) thick boards.
Note: The sides of the tongue and groove boards fig.1 will need to be trimmed (ripped down) to achieve the correct width of the seats and tabletop.
For the frame I used 5/4 x 6 pressure treated wood (actual 1.25 x 5.5). I don’t have a power miter saw so I cut each length with a circular saw then ripped into two identical pieces with a table saw. Cut the angles for each piece with a table saw. The top and seats are T&G pine. This may not hold up outside so I didn’t glue them. I can always replace them with the same pressure treated wood. If I do this I will edge dowel them together rather than use a rod or a batten as shown in the plans.
Thanks for the plans.
Reed
Beware – the cut list is converted to English units by dividing by 25, resulting in rounding errors. More accurate English units can be obtained by dividing by 25.4.