Table of Contents
- 1Introduction
- 2About the measurements, wood sizes
- 3The materials (shopping) list
- 4The materials (shopping) list continued
- 5The cutting list
- 6Cut, shape, and drill the pieces
- 7 Plans, the individual frame pieces
- 8Make up the smaller side frames
- 9Fix the seat support pieces to the long legs
- 10Assemble the side frames
- 11Prepare the frames for seat and tabletop
- 12Make the seat and tabletop panels
- 13Fix and seats and tabletop
- 14Adjust the backstops and fix the bracing
- 15Plans - the armrest
- 16Make and fit the armrest frames
- 17Make and fit the armrest pads
- 18Make the umbrella hole and more photos
About the measurements, wood sizes
Let’s talk about the measurements used
The measurements throughout this project are given in both metric (mm) and standard imperial (inches).
The metric measurements are given first, followed by the standard measurements in brackets ().
Please note that, for rounding off purposes, the metric (mm) measurements given do not convert exactly to their corresponding standard (inch) equivalents, so just choose one or the other and you won’t have any problems as far as the measurements go.
The standard measurements are best suited to North America and the metric measurements are best suited to Australasia and some other countries.
Let’s talk about the wood and sizes
The frame: I used treated pine (suitable for exterior use) for the frame with a stock size of 32 mm x 64 mm (1 1/4″ x 2 1/2″).
That means that the wood is 32 mm (1 1/4″) thick, and 64 mm ( 2 1/2″) wide.
If you are unable to source that stock size, or unable to obtain it by other means (e.g. by ripping it down from a bigger stock size), then use a thicker wood. However, if you do this you will also have to change the length of the bolts to suit, as well as the length of the longer seat panel and the tabletop panel in relation to the shorter seat panel. See Step 8 for more information about that.
The seat and tabletop panels: I used 140 mm (5 1/2) wide x 19 mm (3/4″) thick, tongue and groove boards for the seats and tabletop. Tongue and groove boards have a groove along one edge and a tongue along the other edge.
The tongue on one board fits snugly into a groove in another board.
Tongue and groove joints allow two or more boards to be strongly joined together to make a single flat surface.
Alternative stock: There are other alternatives, such as standard boards or decking boards. They will be dealt with in the appropriate step. Standard 90 mm (3 1/2″) wide x 19 mm (3/4″) thick boards (as another option) will be allowed for in the materials (shopping) list as well as in the plans in Step 8.
For the frame I used 5/4 x 6 pressure treated wood (actual 1.25 x 5.5). I don’t have a power miter saw so I cut each length with a circular saw then ripped into two identical pieces with a table saw. Cut the angles for each piece with a table saw. The top and seats are T&G pine. This may not hold up outside so I didn’t glue them. I can always replace them with the same pressure treated wood. If I do this I will edge dowel them together rather than use a rod or a batten as shown in the plans.
Thanks for the plans.
Reed
Beware – the cut list is converted to English units by dividing by 25, resulting in rounding errors. More accurate English units can be obtained by dividing by 25.4.