Table of Contents
- 1Introduction and Informative Stuff
- 2Plan Drawings and a Material List
- 3Making the floor
- 4Making the front and rear wall frames
- 5Making the curved members
- 6Making the side wall frames
- 7Marking the plywood wall panels
- 8Cutting and preparing the roof frame
- 9Painting the wall frames and panels
- 10Fixing the wall panels to the frames
- 11Putting the floor in place
- 12Standing the walls
- 13Assembling the roof frame
- 14Covering the roof
- 15Making the door
- 16Making the window
- 17Installing the door and the window
- 18The drip caps
- 19A few help notes for the Tudor Shed project
Introduction and Informative Stuff
Section 1.1 Introduction
A garden shed does not have to be an eyesore, but a lot of them certainly are! People tend to buy or build a shed solely for its storage, or work capacity, without considering that a shed can also be a garden feature.
This Tudor-style shed certainly brightened up our garden.
The prose (written text) for this projects incorporates both Standard. Feet and inch measurements. and Millimeter measurements. measurements.
See more about that below, under the ‘Wood Sizes and the Measurements’ heading in section 1.3.
A bigger version of the Tudor-Style Shed can be seen here.
Section 1.2 Shed Description and Size
This shed has an appealing, fairy-tale Tudor look, with its sloping side walls and curved braces.
Whereas most wooden sheds consist of a frame, with a The outer covering of a building meant to shed water and protect from the effects of weather. or The exterior surface of a wall. fixed on the outside, this shed has the The exterior surface of a building. fixed on the inside. Sort of back-to-front from the ‘run of the mill’ shed.
The shed is roomier than the floor size would lead to believe, as the sloping side-walls give extra space, allowing shelves or work benches to be installed at mid-height, without encroaching too much over the floor area.
It is constructed mainly from 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ (90mm x 45mm) Timber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees for the framing, 3/4″ (19mm) thick A piece of wood made of three or more layers of wood veneer laminated together with glue. for the floor and wall cladding, and 3/4″ x 6″ (150mm x 19mm) boards for the roof.
The inside floor size is 6ft (1800mm) wide x 6 1/2ft (1950mm) long.
The inside width gains another 22 inches” (550mm) at mid-height because of the sloping walls. Hence the 8×7 shed. The 8×7 refers to the wall size at mid-height.
The inside height at the highest point is around 8ft (2400mm).
The overall size of the shed (roof area) is 10ft (3000mm) x 8ft (2400m).
The overall height from the ground to the apex is 9ft (2700m).
Read below (section 1.4) to understand how the measurements are given throughout this project.
Section 1.3 Wood Sizes and the Measurements
The wood sizes referred to in this project are the actual sizes.
All measurements throughout this project are given in both Standard/Imperial inches, and Metric (Abbreviation for millimeter which is a metric unit of length equal to one thousandth of a meter. 25.4 mm equals one inch.).
The measurements are given first in inches, followed by millimeters (mm) in brackets ( ).
The inch sizes are not an exact match to the equivalent Abbreviation for millimeter which is a metric unit of length equal to one thousandth of a meter. 25.4 mm equals one inch. sizes.
For rounding-off purposes, we translate 1″ as being 25mm, which is not exact but near enough.
A shed built using the metric measurements will be approximately 1.6% smaller (hardly worth worrying about) than a shed built using the imperial (ft and in) measurements.
In other words, use one or the other but do not mix the two (for those of you who can work equally well with both standard and metric measurements) and you should have no problems as far as the Any of the three linear measurements, length, breadth and depth. go.
The imperial measurements are more suited to North America. The metric measurements are more suited to Australasia and other countries.
Section 1.4 The angles cut
Because of the sloping side-walls and the pitch of the roof, there will be a few varying angles to cope with.
Some of the angles may sound a bit daunting to figure out, but it is really quite easy once you know how.
there is a section “getting the angles (part A few help notes for the Tudor Shed project, section 19.3) ” that explains how to make a template by pre-drawing all the angles on a square A sheet that forms a distinct flat and rectangular section or component. A transparent panel used to fill a framed section of a window. and then, with an adjustable T-bevel, simply transferring the angles to the members that require angle-cutting.