Table of Contents
- 1Introduction and Informative Stuff
- 2Plan Drawings and a Material List
- 3Making the floor
- 4Making the front and rear wall frames
- 5Making the curved members
- 6Making the side wall frames
- 7Marking the plywood wall panels
- 8Cutting and preparing the roof frame
- 9Painting the wall frames and panels
- 10Fixing the wall panels to the frames
- 11Putting the floor in place
- 12Standing the walls
- 13Assembling the roof frame
- 14Covering the roof
- 15Making the door
- 16Making the window
- 17Installing the door and the window
- 18The drip caps
- 19A few help notes for the Tudor Shed project
Making the floor
Section 3.1. Cutting the bearers and the floor joists
Cut the two 4″ x 4″ (100mm x 100m) bearers at 81 1/2″ (2040mm) long.
Cut eight 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ (90mm x 45mm) floor joists 80″ (2000mm) long.
A cut lengthwise along a board that also runs with the grain. (As opposed to cross-cut.) (cut down lengthwise) a 1″ (25mm) strip off two of the joists. In other words, turn a couple of the 3 1/2″ (90mm) wide joists into 2 1/2″ (75mm) wide joists.
The six common joists need to be rebated at both ends (see the pictures).
Do this by first clamping them together on a couple of saw-horses.
Make sure the ends are all in line and square, and that the tops are Being even with..
Make a pencil-line across the top of the six joists, 4″ (100mm) in from each end. That defines the lengths of the rebates (the An L-shaped cutout with one side, that is always at an end or side of a member, unlike a notch that is a U-shaped cutout. area).
How much the teeth are angled out on a circular saw blade. the blade on a circular saw to a depth of 1″ (25mm) and make multiple cuts across the rebate areas, and then clean them out with a chisel.
Ensure that the distance between the rebates at each end is 72″ (1800mm).
Section 3.2. Making the All the floor frame under the floor sheets, including the floor joists and the bearers.
Lay the two 4″ x 4″ (100mm x 100mm) floor bearers on a flat surface so that they are apart 60″ (1500mm) overall.
A short nail with a large flat head used for securing roofing felt, plasterboard, sheet metal to wood etc. the two narrower (ripped) joists to a couple of the common joists.
Use 3 1/2″ (90mm) Covered with a protective coating of zinc. flathead nails, 12 to each pair, staggering the nails along the length of the One of a series of parallel members used to support the floor. Part of the framing that provides the structure for a floor..
That makes a pair of double joists, one pair to go each end of the bearers.
Mark 10″ (250mm) in from the ends of both sets of double joists.
That is the amount that the joists will overhang the bearers.
Place the double joists on the bearers, one pair at each end.
Ensure the bearers are 60″ (1500mm) apart overall and the joists overhang each side of the bearers by 10″ (250mm).
Once in position, nail the double joists to the bearers.
Section 3.3. Ensuring the floor frame is square
Check to see that the work thus far is square.
This can be done by measuring diagonally from corner to corner in one direction, and then by measuring diagonally in the opposite direction.
If both measurements are the same, then the frame is square.
If they are not the same, then the frame will need skewing a little until the diagonals are the same.
Section 3.4. Completing the sub-floor
Run a taut string-line from the end of one joist, to the end of the other.
Pack the string-line out from the joist ends with a nail.
Lay the intermediate joists along the bearers at 16″ (400mm) On center; (See CENTERS) (Centers. (alos see O.C.) Term used for spacing; The measurement of spacing for studs, rafters, and joists in a building from the center of one member to the center of the next.) and align the ends a nail’s breadth away from the string-line and then To secure with nails or screws. them to the bearers.
Cut and fix three rows of blocks between the joists. A row along each side (beginning where the rebate ends) and also a row with its Crs; O.C; Term used for spacing; The measurement of spacing for studs, rafters, and joists in a building from the center of one member to the center of the next. being 48″ (1200mm) from one side (where the rebate ends). It doesn’t matter which side, as that row is solely to support the A piece of wood made of three or more layers of wood veneer laminated together with glue. floor join.
Check the diagonals again, as the sub-floor may have skewed slightly with all the hammering.
Section 3.5. Laying the floor
Cut two pieces of 3/4″ (19mm) plywood. One at 78″ (1950mm) long x 48″ (1200mm) wide, and another at 78″ (1950mm) long x 24″ (600mm) wide.
Lay the floor in place.
Screw the floor sheets temporarily. The floor sheets may have to come off when the floor is moved to its final site, to allow the bearers to be packed, dug in, or whatever will be required to level and secure the sub-floor.
However, if you are building the subfloor on site, and have it level and anchored, then by all means nail or screw the floor permanently.
Meantime, the floor makes a good working surface to make up the wall frames.