Table of Contents
- 1Introduction and Informative Stuff
- 2Plan Drawings and a Material List
- 3Making the floor
- 4Making the front and rear wall frames
- 5Making the curved members
- 6Making the side wall frames
- 7Marking the plywood wall panels
- 8Cutting and preparing the roof frame
- 9Painting the wall frames and panels
- 10Fixing the wall panels to the frames
- 11Putting the floor in place
- 12Standing the walls
- 13Assembling the roof frame
- 14Covering the roof
- 15Making the door
- 16Making the window
- 17Installing the door and the window
- 18The drip caps
- 19A few help notes for the Tudor Shed project
Cutting and preparing the roof frame
Section 8.1. Cutting the rafters
Cut 14 rafters at 72″ (1800mm) long with an angle cut in at one end 36.87 degree A line across the face of a piece of wood (at right angles to the length) is a square line. A line deviating from the square line is off square. Off-square refers to how many degrees the off square line is in relation to the square line. For example, a line at a 5 degrees angle to the square line, is 5 degrees off square..
Need help working out the angles? See Getting the angles (part A few help notes for the Tudor Shed project, section 19.3)
Stand the rafters on edge, stacked next to one-and-other, on a couple of saw-horses, with the bottoms of the rafters facing up.
Make sure the ends are Being even with..
Hold them firmly in place with a clamp or two.
Pencil a line across the rafters, in 1/2″ (37mm) from the square-cut ends.
How much the teeth are angled out on a circular saw blade. the circular saw blade to a 45 degree angle and cut along the pencil line.
Use a disk sander to round the 45 degree cuts.
You can round them as little or as much as you like. It is solely for looks.
With the clamps still on, turn the rafters over so the tops are facing up.
Measure down from the top and make a mark every 4″ (100mm) along all the rafters.
Those marks are for roof-board placement.
Section 8.2. Joining the fly rafters to the common rafters
Now is as good a time as any to To secure with nails or screws. the fly rafters to the end common rafters.
Cut 12 blocks 13 1/4″ (330mm) long.
Stand 8 rafters side-by-side with their ends flush.
Pencil-mark across the eight rafters every 21 1/4″ (530mm) down from the top. Three marks in all.
Spread the rafters apart in pairs.
Place three blocks in between each pair.
Position the blocks on the top side of the marks on the rafters.
Ensure everything is square and A short nail with a large flat head used for securing roofing felt, plasterboard, sheet metal to wood etc. the rafters to the blocks, creating a sort of ladder effect.
Section 8.3. Making the Uppermost horizontal framing member on a roof, to which the tops of the rafters are fixed.
Cut a 3/4″ x 6″ (150mm x 19mm) The horizontal line at the top of opposing sloping sides of a roof running parallel with the building length. A piece of sawn, or dressed lumber of greater width than thickness. Usually 19mm (3/4") to 38mm (1 1/2") thick and 75mm (3") or more wide. at 96″ (2400mm) long. Cut a An L-shaped cutout with one side, that is always at an end or side of a member, unlike a notch that is a U-shaped cutout. at each end as shown in the drawing below.