Table of Contents
- 1Introduction and Informative Stuff
- 2Plan Drawings and a Material List
- 3Making the floor
- 4Making the front and rear wall frames
- 5Making the curved members
- 6Making the side wall frames
- 7Marking the plywood wall panels
- 8Cutting and preparing the roof frame
- 9Painting the wall frames and panels
- 10Fixing the wall panels to the frames
- 11Putting the floor in place
- 12Standing the walls
- 13Assembling the roof frame
- 14Covering the roof
- 15Making the door
- 16Making the window
- 17Installing the door and the window
- 18The drip caps
- 19A few help notes for the Tudor Shed project
Installing the A horizontal framing member above the door/window opening. and the window
Section 17.1.Fitting the hinges
The door opens out, and the widow opens up.
Therefore, hinges need to be fixed to the side A vertical side member of a sash. (Plumb, upright. side Piece of lumber that is part of a frame or structure.) of the door, and to the top The top and bottom frame member of a door or window (not the jamb). Cross member of panel doors or of a sash. Also the upper and lower member of a balustrade or staircase extending from one vertical support, such as a post, to another. The horizontal member of a fence. on the The moving segment of the window, consisting of two side stiles (vertical members), a top rail (horizontal member) and a bottom rail (horizontal member) and muntins..
The door uses three 6″ (150mm) T-hinges and the window uses two 3 1/2″ (90mm) butt-hinges.
Begin fitting the hinges by laying the door and the window on saw-horses or other work platform.
Screw three 6″ (150mm) T-hinges to the side stile of the door, one in line with the top rail, one in line with the A middle horizontal support piece of wood. and one in line with the bottom rail.
Do you want the door opening out to the left or to the right? That will determine what side of the door you To secure with nails or screws. the hinges to.
The window will need two 3 1/2″ (90mm) butt-hinges screwed to the top rail but they will need to be sunk 5/16″ (5mm) into the rail.
Because the window The moving segment of the window, consisting of two side stiles (vertical members), a top rail (horizontal member) and a bottom rail (horizontal member) and muntins. is the same thickness as the surrounding frame. If the hinges were not checked into the top rail, then the sash would bind or jam against the The part of the plywood wall panels that overlaps the door and window frame, and protrudes into the door or window area and covers any gaps between the door/window and the surrounding frame. It acts as a stop for the door and also stops the rain getting in. when being opened or closed.
By sinking the hinge into the rail, it brings the top of the sash away from the stop, thus eliminating the possibility of binding or jamming.
Once the hinges are on, the door and window are ready to hang in place.
Section 17.2. Hanging the door and the window
Place the door in the door opening and pack the sides, top, and bottom (between the door and the opening) so there is even gap all the way around.
Then screw the hinges to the surrounding frame.
Take out the packers, align and fix the A metal rod that has a head on one end and threads on the other and is used to fasten together lumber. The most common bolts used or referred to in projects within this website are coach/carriage bolts and hex bolts. catch.
Hang the window following the same procedure.