Table of Contents
- 1Introduction and Informative Stuff
- 2Plan Drawings and a Material List
- 3Making the floor
- 4Making the front and rear wall frames
- 5Making the curved members
- 6Making the side wall frames
- 7Marking the plywood wall panels
- 8Cutting and preparing the roof frame
- 9Painting the wall frames and panels
- 10Fixing the wall panels to the frames
- 11Putting the floor in place
- 12Standing the walls
- 13Assembling the roof frame
- 14Covering the roof
- 15Making the door
- 16Making the window
- 17Installing the door and the window
- 18The drip caps
- 19A few help notes for the Tudor Shed project
Making the side wall frames
Section 6.1. Cutting the side wall frame members
Cut the side wall frame members as described below.
Both the side walls are the same so you can cut the members for both at the same time.
Cut six studs at 56 1/2″ (1410mm).
A cut lengthwise along a board that also runs with the grain. (As opposed to cross-cut.) two of the studs in half to make up the four end studs, which are half the width of the common studs.
Cut the four sidewall plates (a top and The bottom horizontal framing member of the wall. for each side wall) at 79 5/8″ (1990mm) long. But, before you cut them, double-check the required length of the plates, just in case the A piece of wood made of three or more layers of wood veneer laminated together with glue. you are using is a different thickness or you made the floor platform at a slightly different length to the plan.
Note: the exact lengths of the side wall plates should be the length of the floor platform PLUS two thickness of plywood, and all being according to plan, that should be 79 5/8″ (1990mm) long.
Clamp the plates together, and mark out the A U-shaped cutout in a member to house another member. A notch has two sides and can be anywhere along the member except the ends (unlike a rebate that is an L-shaped cut-out with one side and is always at an end or side of a member). and An L-shaped cutout with one side, that is always at an end or side of a member, unlike a notch that is a U-shaped cutout. positions as shown below.
The notches are to house the intermediate common studs, and the rebates are to house the end narrow studs.
Make multiple saw cuts across the notch and rebate areas, and then clean the notches/rebates with a chisel.
Section 6.2. Assembling the side wall frames
Lay the side wall frame members in position on a flat surface.
A short nail with a large flat head used for securing roofing felt, plasterboard, sheet metal to wood etc. the plates to the studs.
Add a row of Blocks, see Block. 40″ (1000mm) up from the underside of the bottom The top or bottom horizontal framing member of the wall. to the underside of the blocking.
Check to see if the wall is completely square.
This can be done by measuring diagonally across the wall frame in one direction, and then by measuring the opposing diagonal.
If both measurements are the same, then the wall-frame is square.
If both measurements are not the same, then you will have to skew the frame a little until the diagonal measurements are the same.
Once the frame is square, add a temporary diagonal To make rigid. to keep it square until you To secure with nails or screws. the curved braces to each side.
To do this, lay the curved braces in position on top of the frame. Mark, cut, and fix them.