Table of Contents
- 1Introduction and Informative Stuff
- 2Plan Drawings and a Material List
- 3Making the floor
- 4Making the front and rear wall frames
- 5Making the curved members
- 6Making the side wall frames
- 7Marking the plywood wall panels
- 8Cutting and preparing the roof frame
- 9Painting the wall frames and panels
- 10Fixing the wall panels to the frames
- 11Putting the floor in place
- 12Standing the walls
- 13Assembling the roof frame
- 14Covering the roof
- 15Making the door
- 16Making the window
- 17Installing the door and the window
- 18The drip caps
- 19A few help notes for the Tudor Shed project
Making the A horizontal framing member above the door/window opening.
Section 15.1. Determining the door size
Measure the door opening in the wall (called the Trim size; The framed-in opening, slightly larger than the actual window/door, that replaces wall studs to support the structure and accommodate a window/door.).
Deduct 3/4″ (19mm) off the height and the width to get the door size.
For example: The door opening in the frame is (or should be) 72″ (1800mm) high x 32″ (800mm) wide.
Therefore, make the actual door 71 1/4″ (1780mm) high x 31 1/4″ (780mm) wide.
There should be a maximum 3/8″ (10mm) gap all around the door.
Note: You can work with a 1/4″ (6mm) gap all around. I just prefer a bigger gap around shed doors.
Section 15.2. Cutting and preparing the door pieces
Cut a piece of 3/4″ (19mm) A piece of wood made of three or more layers of wood veneer laminated together with glue. 71 1/4″ (1780mm) high x 31 1/4″ (780mm) wide and lay it on a flat surface.
Cut two 3/4″ x 6″ (150mm x 19mm) boards at 71 1/4″ (1780mm) long and place them on the plywood, one each side.
Measure and cut the three 3/4″ x 6″ (150mm x 19mm) Parallel to the horizon, flat, level. rails and place them on the plywood in position.
Refer to the plan drawing in section 2.1.12 for positioning
Do not To secure with nails or screws. permanently at this stage.
Measure, cut, and fit in place, the window cross pieces out of 3/4″ x 4″ (100mm x 19mm) A piece of sawn, or dressed lumber of greater width than thickness. Usually 19mm (3/4") to 38mm (1 1/2") thick and 75mm (3") or more wide..
Note: A cut lengthwise along a board that also runs with the grain. (As opposed to cross-cut.) (cut down lengthwise) the window cross pieces from a spare roof board.
Mark the window openings on the plywood. Also mark where the other pieces go, so you know where to apply the glue.
Remove all the pieces off the plywood.
Mark 3/4″ (19mm) out from the previously marked window opening, all the way around, and cut out along that mark.
Section 15.3. Assembling and fixing the door pieces
Apply ample glue on the plywood areas to be covered.
Place all the other pieces back into position on the plywood and hold them in place with clamps.
Fix with either screws or nails.
If you use screws, make sure that they are long enough to almost go through the total thickness of the Timber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees.
If you use nails (as was used in this project) then use Covered with a protective coating of zinc. flathead nails that are a bit longer than the total thickness of the wood. A short nail with a large flat head used for securing roofing felt, plasterboard, sheet metal to wood etc. through the front of the door, and bend the ends of the nails over at the back of the door.
Section 15.4. Making the A molding or strip of wood to cover the edge of a window pane and hold it in. for the door window
Note: The glass The part of the plywood wall panels that overlaps the door and window frame, and protrudes into the door or window area and covers any gaps between the door/window and the surrounding frame. It acts as a stop for the door and also stops the rain getting in. is s strip of wood that covers the edge of a window Glass or clear sheet acrylic cut in rectangular shapes for the windows. and holds it in.
Rip a length of wood 3/4″ (19mm) wide and at least 11ft (3300mm) long from a spare roof board for the glass stop.
Section 15.5. Painting the door
Paint the door and the glass stop. I used a water-based paint and the color was called “duck-egg blue”.
Section 15.6. Fitting the window panes
Measure the window pane areas in the door window and have 1/8″ (3mm) thick clear acrylic (plastic) or glass panes cut to fit loosely into each area.
According to the plans you will need four panes 7″ x 8″ (175mm x 200mm) but check just in case.
Place them in the appropriate openings.
Cut the glass stop to go around the boundary. of the window pane, and Toenail. A nail driven at an angle to the member. (toe nail) with 1/2″ (40mm) galvanized nails through the glass stop into the surrounding window frame.
Once the glass stop is fixed around each window pane, run a thin Beading. Thin line of sealant. of clear A pliable substance used to seal a surface to prevent passage of a liquid. around the sides and bottom of each pane.
A Tip or Two!
There are 12 plan drawings you can refer to at anytime.
To see them go to page 2.
Need help working out angles? See Getting the angles (part A few help notes for the Tudor Shed project, section 19.3)