Table of Contents

- 1Introduction and Informative Stuff
- 2Plan Drawings and a Material List
- 3Making the floor
- 4Making the front and rear wall frames
- 5Making the curved members
- 6Making the side wall frames
- 7Marking the plywood wall panels
- 8Cutting and preparing the roof frame
- 9Painting the wall frames and panels
- 10Fixing the wall panels to the frames
- 11Putting the floor in place
- 12Standing the walls
- 13Assembling the roof frame
- 14Covering the roof
- 15Making the door
- 16Making the window
- 17Installing the door and the window
- 18The drip caps
- 19A few help notes for the Tudor Shed project

**A few help notes for the Tudor Shed project**

** Section 19.1. Help sources – Where to find help**

There are a few help initiatives for the Tudor Shed Project.

1.) There are help notes on this page. Help notes added to this page are ongoing. Feedback and user input determines what is added to this page.

**Note:** We do not personally offer or give any project advice or help by e-mail or snail mail. We do, however, take on boardA piece of sawn, or dressed lumber of greater width than thickness. Usually 19mm (3/4") to 38mm (1 1/2") thick and 75mm (3") or more wide. any constructive criticism and make adjustments if warranted and we do try to supply help initiatives.

2.) There is also a glossary of terms which can be found in **Section 20.1 Glossary.**

The glossary gives an explanation of terminology (project words) used in this project.

**Section 19.2. Help with measurement – Understanding the measurements**

All measurements throughout this project are given in both Standard/Imperial inches, and MetricMillimeter measurements. (mmAbbreviation for millimeter which is a metric unit of length equal to one thousandth of a meter. 25.4 mm equals one inch.).

The measurements are given first in inches, followed by millimeters (mm) in brackets ( ).

1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ means woodTimber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees that is 1 1/2 (one and a half) inches thick by 3 1/2 (three and a half) inches wide.

And the equivalent in metric…

90mm x 45mm means wood that is 90 millimeters wide by 45 millimeters thick.

The millimeterAbbreviation for millimeter which is a metric unit of length equal to one thousandth of a meter. 25.4 mm equals one inch. measurements are written opposite to the standard measurements. Why?

In North America they call the smaller side first. Example: 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″

In Australasia they call the bigger side first. Example: 90mm x 45mm

The inch sizes are not an exact match to the equivalent millimeter sizes, because for rounding-off purposes we translate 1″ as being 25mm which is not exactly right but near enough..

A shed built using the metric measurements will be approximately 1.6% smaller (hardly worth worrying about) than a shed built using the imperialStandard. Feet and inch measurements. (ft and in) measurements.

In other words, use one or the other but do not mix the two (for those of you who can work with both standard and metric measurements) and you should have no problems as far as the dimensionsAny of the three linear measurements, length, breadth and depth. go.

The imperial measurements are more suited to North America. The metric measurements are more suited to Australasia and other countries.

**Section 19.3. Help with angles – How to work out the angles**

Because of the sloping wall and the pitch of the roof, there will be a few different angles you will have to work with.

Sometimes throughout this project you will have to make some angle cuts across certain members.

Some of the angles may sound a bit daunting to figure out, but it is really quite easy once you know how.

There is a separate help file that explains how to pre-draw all the angles on a square panelA sheet that forms a distinct flat and rectangular section or component. A transparent panel used to fill a framed section of a window. and then, with an adjustable T-bevel, you can simply transfer the angles to the members that require angle-cutting.

**Working with angles**

Sometime throughout this project you will have to make some angle cuts across certain members.

Somewhere you will come across a sentence similar to…

“… cut one end of the wood 10° off squareA line across the face of a piece of wood (at right angles to the length) is a square line. A line deviating from the square line is off square. Off-square refers to how many degrees the off square line is in relation to the square line. For example, a line at a 5 degrees angle to the square line, is 5 degrees off square..” **What’s that?**

Ok. Firstly, what’s a square cut?

A square cut is a cut that runs straight across a piece of wood.

Therefore, a cut that runs at 10° to the square cut, is a cut that is 10° off square.

Have a look at the drawing over there > > >

**All right! So how do we get the angles?**

There are four different angles you will work with throughout this project.

They are a 10° angle, a 26.87° angle, a 36.87° angle and a 53.13° angle.

**eh! They sound like awkward angles to try and work out.**

Not really, if you were talking slopeSee fall. (rise over run)

10° would be a rise of 1 for every 5.67 of run.

26.87° would be a rise of 1 for every 2 of run (or near enough).

36.87° would be a rise of 3 for every 4 of run.

53.13°. would be a rise of 4 in every 3 of run.

So, using the above ‘rise over run’ equation you can make an angle template by marking the required angles on a rectangleFour-sided figure with four right angles. panel.

**Getting the angles**

Make an angle template by marking the required angles on a rectangle panel, say a piece of plywoodA piece of wood made of three or more layers of wood veneer laminated together with glue. 18″ x 24″ (450mm x 600mm).

**To get a 10° angle**, measure 1 unit across the rectangle panel and 5.67 units down.

**Note:** A unit can be any measurement. For example: if you make each unit 4 inches (100mm), then measure 4 inches or 100mm (1 unit) across and 22 11/16 inches or 567mm (5.67 units) down to make a 10° angle.

**To get a 26.87° angle**, measure 1 unit across and 2 units down.

**Note:** Once again a unit can be anything. If your make each unit four inches (100mm), it would be 4 inches or 100mm (1 unit) across and 8 inches or 200mm (2 units) down to make a 26.87° angle.

**To get a 36.87° angle**, measure 3 unit across and 4 units down.

**Note:** Once again a unit can be anything. If your make each unit four inches (100mm), it would be 12 inches or 300mm (3 unit) across and 16 inches or 400mm (4 units) down to make a 36.87° angle.

**To get a 53.13° angle**, measure 4 unit across and 3 units down.

**Note:** Once again a unit can be anything. If your make each unit four inches (100mm), it would be 16 inches or 400mm (4 unit) across and 12 inches or 300mm (3 units) down to make a 53.13° angle.

You have now made a template for a 10° angle, a 26.87° angle, a 36.87° angle and a 53.13° angle.

SetHow much the teeth are angled out on a circular saw blade. the T-bevel gauge to the required angle and transfer it to any piece that requires that particular angle cut.

**Section 19.4. Help with wood sizes – wood sizes used in this project**

The wood sizes referred to in this project are the actual sizes and are not the nominal sizes.

The bulk of the shed framework is made out of 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ (90mm x 45mm) wood which is the actual sizeThe finished (dressed) size as opposed to the nominal size of a piece of wood..

ACTUAL and NOMINAL (what that’s all about!)

It is easy to see why some people get confused when purchasing wood, as when you go to the supplier and ask for a particular stock size, sometimes what you end up with is a different width and thickness than what you asked for.

Why is this?

Well…

That’s because most wood is identified by it’s sawnRough sawn; Not gauged, planed or dressed. size (nominal sizeThe rough-sawn size of a piece of lumber. Before the lumber is surfaced, planed or dressed. The nominal size is usually greater than the actual dimension. e.g. 100x50 (2 x 4) actually equals 90x45 (1 1/2" x 3 1/2").) rather than actual size which is smaller due to dressing (planing) and/or drying.

NOMINAL SIZE (also called sawn or rough sawn) is the size of the wood when it is first sawn such as 2″ x 4″ (100mm x 50mm).

When the sawn wood is seasoned, dressedSurfaced; planed; smooth; even surface; gauged. or planed the size becomes smaller which is the ACTUAL SIZE.

Therefore….. A piece of 2″ x 4″ (100mm x 50mm) wood (nominal, sawn size) may become approximately 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ (90mm x 45mm) which is the actual size.

By the way, some countries that use the metric system put the bigger number first (100×50) and countries that use the imperial or standard system put the smaller number first (2×4).

Tom says

Two questions please:

1.) Any recommendations for finishing on the sides regarding weather proofing? Would a Kiltz style primer followed by a finish coat of white acrylic be best for moisture proofing (with caulk as needed)?

2.) Any recommendation for whether to use pressure treated wood to prevent termite issues? I do plan to raise it off the ground with concrete but still concerned as I have lots of mulch in neighborhood of shack. Plan to use it on bottom runners, but is it a good idea at other locations? Seal bottom, ground facing portion with vinyl? Thanks!