Table of Contents
- 1Introduction and Informative Stuff
- 2Plan Drawings and a Material List
- 3Making the floor
- 4Making the front and rear wall frames
- 5Making the curved members
- 6Making the side wall frames
- 7Marking the plywood wall panels
- 8Cutting and preparing the roof frame
- 9Painting the wall frames and panels
- 10Fixing the wall panels to the frames
- 11Putting the floor in place
- 12Standing the walls
- 13Assembling the roof frame
- 14Covering the roof
- 15Making the door
- 16Making the window
- 17Installing the door and the window
- 18The drip caps
- 19A few help notes for the Tudor Shed project
Covering the roof
Section 14.1. Laying and fixing the Boards used to cover the roof.
The rafters have already been marked at every 4″ (100mm) along the top for roof A piece of sawn, or dressed lumber of greater width than thickness. Usually 19mm (3/4") to 38mm (1 1/2") thick and 75mm (3") or more wide. placement. That was done in section 8.1.
Now clamp a board to the outside of a fly-rafter, running all the way up. Make the board at least the length of the Structural member of a roof that supports the roof load and runs from the ridge to the top of the side walls. and protruding (sticking up) an inch or two above the A projecting rafter of a gable end., creating a straight-edge to butt the ends of the roof boards up to.
Begin laying and fixing the roof boards from the bottom and work your way up.
Hold the first board with one end against the straight-edge and the top edge Being even with. with the first row of marks on the rafters, which are 4″ (100mm) up from the ends.
A short nail with a large flat head used for securing roofing felt, plasterboard, sheet metal to wood etc. the first board to the rafters using one 3″ (75mm) flathead Covered with a protective coating of zinc. nail at each rafter.
For the first board only, nail it 3″ (75mm) down from the top of the board.
Note: Use 3″ (75mm) flathead galvanized nail if the boards you are using are 3/4″ (19mm) thick. If you use thicker boards, say 1″ (25mm) thick, then use 3 1/2″ (90mm) nails.
Next the second board.
Hold the second board with one end against the straight-edge, and the top edge flush with the second row of marks.
The bottom of the second board should be overlapping the top of the first board by 2″ (50mm).
Nail the board to the rafter using one 3″ (75mm) flathead galvanized nail 4 1/2″ (112mm) down from the top of the board at each rafter.
The nail should go through both boards, the bottom of the top board and the top of the lower board.
Likewise with the rest of the roof-boards working your way to the top.
Section 14.2. Fixing the Capping along the apex of the roof (right along the top). A galvanized flashing to keep the water out.
To secure with nails or screws. a length of galvanized 2″ x 2″ (50mm x 50mm) angle Any piece of material, usually metal or plastic, installed to prevent water from penetrating the structure. (The horizontal line at the top of opposing sloping sides of a roof running parallel with the building length. Covering) along the top of the apex over the roof boards.
Nail through the side of the flashing, through the roof boards into the top of the rafters.
A Tip or Two!
There are 12 plan drawings you can refer to at anytime. To see them go to page 2.
Section 14.3. About the A board covering the ends of the roof boards and sits flat over the barge board. and Exterior visible flat trim board that follows the rake of the roof.
The barge Cover and the barge board is the The finish materials in a building, such as narrow boards applied around openings (window trim, door trim) and vertical corner battens. that runs up the The roof ends and walls that form an inverted "V". to cover the ends of the roof boards and the fly rafters.
The barge caps sit flat on top of the roof boards, and overhangs the edge of the fly rafters by 2″ (50mm).
The barge boards are fixed to the fly rafters directly under the barge caps.
The barge cap is 3/4″ x 6″ (150mm x 19mm) board and the barge board is 3/4″ x 3″ (75mm x 19mm) board.
Note: Use spare roof boards for the barge cap and A cut lengthwise along a board that also runs with the grain. (As opposed to cross-cut.) (cut down lengthwise) in half some roof boards to make up the barge boards.
Section 14.4. Cutting and fixing the barge cap and the barge board
The barge capping is a piece of 3/4″ x 6″ (150mm x 19mm) board that runs up the Angle of roof. of the roof, sitting flat over the ends of the roof boards.
Cut four lengths of 3/4″ x 6″ (150mm x 19mm) at 76 3/8″ (1910mm) long, with the bottom cut square and the top cut with the circular saw blade How much the teeth are angled out on a circular saw blade. at a 36.87 degree angle A line across the face of a piece of wood (at right angles to the length) is a square line. A line deviating from the square line is off square. Off-square refers to how many degrees the off square line is in relation to the square line. For example, a line at a 5 degrees angle to the square line, is 5 degrees off square..
Need help working out the angles? See Getting the angles (A few help notes for the Tudor Shed project, section 19.3)
Fix the barge cap in place with one edge overhanging the fly rafter by 2″ (50mm).
The barge board is a piece of 3/4″ x 3″ (75mm x 19mm) board that goes under the barge cap and covers the fly rafter.
Cut four lengths of 3/4″ x 3″ (75mm x 19mm) at 75 1/4″ (1880mm) long, with the bottom cut rounded and the top cut angled in 36.87 degrees off square.
Fix them to the fly rafters directly underneath the barge capping.
Note: Rip some roof boards in half (cut down lengthwise) to make the barge boards.