Table of Contents
- 1Introduction and Informative Stuff
- 2Plan Drawings and a Material List
- 3Making the floor
- 4Making the front and rear wall frames
- 5Making the curved members
- 6Making the side wall frames
- 7Marking the plywood wall panels
- 8Cutting and preparing the roof frame
- 9Painting the wall frames and panels
- 10Fixing the wall panels to the frames
- 11Putting the floor in place
- 12Standing the walls
- 13Assembling the roof frame
- 14Covering the roof
- 15Making the door
- 16Making the window
- 17Installing the door and the window
- 18The drip caps
- 19A few help notes for the Tudor Shed project
Putting the floor in place
Section 11.1. Positioning the All the floor frame under the floor sheets, including the floor joists and the bearers.
Determine the position of the shed and then prepare the ground for the sub-floor.
Make sure the ground where the floor bearers will sit is level and firm.
Use a level or a water level to ensure the sub-floor is level.
Also ensure the rest of the grade under the floor is lower than the underside of the floor joists.
Lift the sub-floor in place.
If the shed is in a sheltered or low wind zone, then no more action is required – continue laying the floor.
Section 11.2. Anchoring the sub-floor
If you are concerned about strong winds and want the shed anchored to the ground, now is the time to do it.
If need be, dig four fence see PILE type holes, one near each end of both bearers. Place 4″ x 4″ (100mm x 100mm) posts into each of the holes and A metal rod that has a head on one end and threads on the other and is used to fasten together lumber. The most common bolts used or referred to in projects within this website are coach/carriage bolts and hex bolts. them to the bearers.
Fill the holes up with A mixture of sand, gravel, water and cement which hardens to a stone like condition when dry..
Of course, once you have done that, you will also have to secure the shed from the floor to the roof, otherwise the posts you just concreted in will be useless.
One way to do that is to use metal Covered with a protective coating of zinc. strap, hurricane ties, or other fasteners, to tie the A sub-floor wood supporting the floor joists. to the floor joists, and fasteners to tie the floor joists to the bottom plates, and also fasteners (Short lengths of metal strap 25×1 (1/16×1) used to fix members together to resist uplift., hurricane ties etc) to To secure with nails or screws. the top plates to the roof rafters.
Section 11.3. Fixing the floor to the sub-floor
You can now fix (A short nail with a large flat head used for securing roofing felt, plasterboard, sheet metal to wood etc. or screw) the floor panels to the floor joists.
Nail the floor sheets to the sub-floor members with 2 1/2″ (60mm) galvanized flathead nails (or 2″ (50mm) Timber, lumber. The hard fibrous lignified substance under the bark of trees screws) spaced every 6″ (150mm) around the boundary. and along the join, and spaced every 8″ (1200mm) along the intermediate joists.