How to build an 8x7 Tudor-Style Shed
Section 15: Making the door
Section 15.1. Determining the door size
Measure the door opening in the wall (called the rough opening).
Deduct 3/4" (19mm) off the height and the width to get the door size.
For example: The door opening in the frame is (or should be) 72" (1800mm) high x 32" (800mm) wide.
Therefore, make the actual door 71 1/4" (1780mm) high x 31 1/4" (780mm) wide.
There should be a maximum 3/8" (10mm) gap all around the door.
Note: You can work with a 1/4" (6mm) gap all around. I just prefer a bigger gap around shed doors.
Section 15.2. Cutting and preparing the door pieces
Cut a piece of 3/4" (19mm) plywood 71 1/4" (1780mm) high x 31 1/4" (780mm) wide
and lay it on a flat surface.
Cut two 3/4" x 6" (150mm x 19mm) boards at 71 1/4" (1780mm) long and place them on the plywood, one each side.
Measure and cut the three 3/4" x 6" (150mm x 19mm) horizontal rails and place them on the plywood in position.
Refer to the plan drawing in 'section 2.1.12.' for positioning
Do not fix permanently at this stage.
Measure, cut, and fit in place, the window cross pieces out of 3/4" x 4" (100mm x 19mm) board.
Note: Rip (cut down lengthwise) the window cross pieces from a spare roof board.
Mark the window openings on the plywood. Also mark where the other pieces go, so you know where to apply the glue.
Remove all the pieces off the plywood.
Mark 3/4" (19mm) out from the previously marked window opening, all the way around, and cut out along that mark.
Section 15.3. Assembling and fixing the door pieces
Apply ample glue on the plywood areas to be covered.
Place all the other pieces back into position on the plywood and hold them in place with clamps.
Fix with either screws or nails.
If you use screws, make sure that they are long enough to almost go through the total thickness of the wood.
If you use nails (as was used in this project) then use galvanized flathead nails that are a bit longer than the total thickness of the wood. Nail through the front of the door, and bend the ends of the nails over at the back of the door.
Section 15.4. Making the glass stop for the door window
The glass stop is a strip of wood that covers the edge of a window pane and holds it in. Rip a length of wood 3/4" (19mm) wide and at least 11ft (3300mm) long from a spare roof board for the glass stop.
Section 15.5. Painting the door
Paint the door and the glass stop. I used a water-based paint and the color was called "duck-egg blue".
Section 15.6. Fitting the window panes
Measure the window pane areas in the door window and have 1/8" (3mm) thick clear acrylic (plastic) or glass panes cut to fit loosely into each area.
According to the plans you will need four panes 7" x 8" (175mm x 200mm) but check just in case.
Place them in the appropriate openings.
Cut the glass stop to go around the perimeter of the window pane, and angle nail (toe nail) with 1/2" (40mm) galvanized nails through the glass stop into the surrounding window frame.
Once the glass stop is fixed around each window pane, run a thin bead of clear sealant around the sides and bottom of each pane.