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How to build an 8x7 Tudor-Style Shed

Section 16: Making the window

Section 16.1. Determining the window sash size

Note: A window sash is the moving segment of the window, consisting of two side stiles (vertical members), a top rail (horizontal member) and a bottom rail (horizontal member) and muntins.
To determine the sash size, measure the window opening in the wall frame (called the rough opening).
Deduct 3/4" (19mm) off the height and the width to get the window sash size.
For example: The window opening in the frame is (or should be) 24" (600mm) high x 32" (800mm) wide.
Therefore, make the actual window size 23 1/4" (580mm) high x 31 1/4" (780mm) wide.
So there should be a maximum 3/8" (10mm) gap all around the door.
Note: You can work with a 1/4" (6mm) gap all around. I just prefer a bigger gap for sheds.

Section 16.2. Making the window sash

making the window sash for the shed

Use 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 45mm) wood.
Take a length 10ft (3m) long and make a rebate 1" x 1" (25mm x 25mm) down one edge.
Take a length 48" (1200mm) long and make a rebate 1" x 1" (25mm x 25mm) down two adjacent edges.
The rebates can be cut by first marking the rebate lines along the wood, and then setting the blade on your circular saw to a depth of 1" (25mm) and cutting down the lines.
Save the off-cut piece, as that can be used for the glass stop to hold the acrylic or glass window panes in place.
Once rebated:
Using the wood with a single rebate, cut four pieces, all with a 45 degree angle at both ends.
Make two pieces 31 1/4" (780mm) long and two pieces 23 1/4" (580mm) long.

Clamp the pieces side-by-side together (flush) and mark and cut a notch in the middle. making the window sash for the shed 2
Make the notch 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 45mm) wide (which is the width of the window cross members) and as deep as the rebate.
Then glue and screw the four pieces together at the corners making a "picture frame".
Measure across the middle of the window between the side notches and cut the horizontal muntin bar (horizontal middle rail) to length.
Then make a notch in the middle each side of the horizontal muntin bar to house the vertical muntin bar (vertical middle rail).
Fit, glue, and screw the horizontal muntin bar in place.
Then measure and cut the two vertical muntin bars (one top and one bottom of the horizontal muntin).
Fit, glue, and screw the vertical muntin bars in place.
Fix a corner metal angle to the outside of each corner.

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Section 16.3. Painting the window

painting and glazing the sash

When the glue has dried, sand the sash ready for painting.
Paint the window sash and the beading.
I used a water-based paint and the color was called "duck-egg blue".

Section 16.4. Fitting in the window panes
Measure the window areas (four altogether) and have 1/8" (3mm) thick clear acrylic (plastic) or glass panes cut to fit loosely into each area.
According to the plans you will need four panes 8" x 12" (200mm x 300mm) for the window but check just in case.
Place them in the window holes.
Cut the glass stop to go around the perimeter of the panes and then angle nail (toe nail) through the glass stop into the surrounding sash frame.
Once the glass stop is fixed around each window area, run a thin bead of clear sealant around the sides and bottom of each pane.

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