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How to build an 8x7 Tudor-Style Shed

Section 4: Making the front and rear wall frames

Section 4.1. Cutting the front and rear wall frame members

which way the members go in the wall-frame

Note: The wall frames are made with all the members (studs, plates, etc.) being on their side, as opposed to their edge.
Guess you could say opposite to normal, as shown in the drawing.
That means that the finished wall-frames will be 1 1/2" (45mm) thick, rather than the normal 3 1/2" (90mm).

Begin by cutting the front and rear wall frame members as described below.

Some of the frame members will require an angle-cut at one or both ends.

Need help working out the angles?   See section 21.

The front and rear walls are pretty much the same as each other, with the exception of the rear wall having a couple of additional members for the window.
You can, therefore, cut most of the members for both walls at the same time.

Cut the two bottom plates 78 3/4" (1970mm) long, with the ends angled in 10 degrees off square.

You will need to cut a rebate at each end of the bottom plates to house the end studs, and also cut a couple of notches along the bottom plates to house the door/window studs.

front-frame bottom plate cut-out dimensions

Clamp the two bottom plates together, so that you can cut the rebates and notches in both plates together.

notching and rebating the frame plates

Use a block the same width as a stud, for a guide to mark the width of the rebates.
Hold the block at each end on the face of the plates, flush with the angled end, and pencil-mark along the inside of the block.

Then (with a square) continue the pencil-mark square across the top of the two plates.

Next, measure out 16" (400mm) each side from the center of the plates, to mark the distance between the door studs and the start of the door/window stud notch areas.

Mark the width of the notch area using a blocking as a guide, in the same way as you marked the end rebates (as described above).
Ensure (check with a square) that the pencil-lines across the top of the plates are square.

Set the saw blade on a circular saw to a depth equal to half that of the wall-plate.
Make multiple saw cuts across the notch area.
Clean out the notches with a chisel.
Then adjust the saw blade angle to 10 degrees and make multiple saw cuts across the rebate areas at each end of the plates.
Check to see that the notches will house the studs by testing them with a block.

Next the raking top plates.

You will need to cut four raking top plates altogether, as there are two each side of both front and rear walls.

cut 4 top plates at 63 3/8" (1590mm) long, with a 36.87 degree angle at one end and a 26.87 degree angle at the other end.

Need help working out the angles?   See section 21.

Of course, if you have an adjustable miter saw with the angles marked on it, it's easy.

Cut a rebate at the '26.87° angle end' of the top plates.
Pay attention to the drawing to ensure that the rebate is cut into the right edge of the plate.

top plate dimensions

Clamp the four top plates together, and cut the rebate in the same manner as was done in the bottom plates.

Next, cut four end studs 58 5/8" long, with a 26.87 degree angle cut at one end and a 10 degree cut the other.

the shed front and rear wall frame pieces

Then cut four door/window studs 72" (1800mm) long.

Cut both the front door head and the rear window head 52 1/2" (1310mm) long, with a 53.13 degree off square angle cut at each end.

Need help working out the angles?   See section 21.

Mark where the notches go, but do not cut them just yet.
Also, do not cut any of the blocking pieces just yet, as they will need to be measured in place once the rest of the front and rear wall frame members are nailed together.

Pictures in section 4.1 (above) from top to bottom.
fig.4.1.a) Marking a rebate on the plate.
fig.4.1.b) Multiple saw-cuts across the notch/rebate areas.
fig.4.1.c) The notches and rebates cleaned out.
fig.4.1.d) The members for the front and rear wall frames.

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Section 4.2. Assembling the front and rear wall frames

Lay the cut frame members in place on a flat surface and nail them together.

Ensure the overall height is 96" (2400mm). If not, pull the sides in or push them out as need be, to achieve that measurement.

assembling the sheds front wall frame

Then temporarily nail a brace across a frame to hold it in that position. Use a roof board as a temporary brace (fig.4.2.a).

Sit a door/window head in place, on top of the door/window studs (fig.4.2.b). Check the door/window head is parallel with the bottom plate.
Ensure the door/window studs are in line with the notch pencil-marks on each door/window head.
Make a pencil-line across the tops of the door studs, in line with the underside of the door/window heads.
Remove the door/window heads.

The distance between the top of the door studs and the newly added pencil-line, will be the depth to cut the notches in the door/window heads.
Set the depth of the saw blade accordingly.
Clamp the two door/window heads together (one for the front wall and one for the rear wall).
Cut out the notches by making multiple saw cuts across the marked notch area, and then clean them out with a chisel.

Then fix the door/window heads in place along with the gable stud (fig.4.2.c), and the blocking (fig.4.2.d) as described below.

assembling the sheds front wall frame 2

Measure, cut and fix the middle-row of blocking between the door studs and the end studs, with the top of the blocking being 48" (1200mm) up from the bottom of the frame.
Each piece will have one end cut at 10 degrees off square.

The overall length of each blocking piece should be approximately 24" (600mm).
Cut four pieces, two for the front wall and two for the back.

Measure and cut the gable stud that sits on the top of the door/window head and fits under the apex.
The top of this piece has a point in the middle that angles back 36.87 degrees.
The best way to cut this, is to cut the point first on a piece that is over length. Then hold it up to the apex, mark the length, cut it, and fix it in place.

The approximate length of the gable stud should be around 16" (400mm)

Now measure, cut, and fix the two remaining window members (the sill and cripple stud) to the rear wall-frame.

There are still the curved brace members to cut and fix in place.

Pictures in section 4.2 (above) from top to bottom:
fig.4.2.a) The front frame with a temporary brace to hold it in position.
fig.4.2.b) Aligning the door/window head to mark the notches.
fig.4.2.c) The gable stud fixed in place under the apex.
fig.4.2.d) Only the curved members to go.

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