How to build an 8x7 Tudor-Style Shed
Section 6: Making the side wall frames
Section 6.1. Cutting the side wall frame members
Cut the side wall frame members as described below.
Both the side walls are the same so you can cut the members for both at the same time.
Cut six studs at 56 1/2" (1410mm).
Rip two of the studs in half to make up the four end studs, which are half the width of the common studs.
Cut the four sidewall plates (a top and bottom plate for each side wall) at 79 5/8" (1990mm) long. But, before you cut them, double-check the required length of the plates, just in case the plywood you are using is a different thickness or you made the floor platform at a slightly different length to the plan.
Note: the exact lengths of the side wall plates should be the length of the floor platform PLUS two thickness of plywood, and all being according to plan, that should be 79 5/8" (1990mm) long.
Clamp the plates together, and mark out the notch and rebate positions as shown below.
The notches are to house the intermediate common studs, and the rebates are to house the end narrow studs.
Make multiple saw cuts across the notch and rebate areas, and then clean the notches/rebates with a chisel.
Section 6.2. Assembling the side wall frames
Lay the side wall frame members in position on a flat surface.
Nail the plates to the studs.
Add a row of blocking 40" (1000mm) up from the underside of the bottom plate to the underside of the blocking.
Check to see if the wall is completely square.
This can be done by measuring diagonally across the wall frame in one direction, and then by measuring the opposing diagonal.
If both measurements are the same, then the wall-frame is square.
If both measurements are not the same, then you will have to skew the frame a little until the diagonal measurements are the same.
Once the frame is square, add a temporary diagonal brace to keep it square until you fix the curved braces to each side.
To do this, lay the curved braces in position on top of the frame. Mark, cut, and fix them.